June 28, 29 & 30 - Prince Rupert

Bojangles happy at last in the hot Prince Rupert sunshine, record temperatures

Entering Prince Rupert harbour just as a cruise ship and ferry were leaving

The new container port facilities on the outer edge of Prince Rupert harbour

We left Baker Inlet at high slack tide this morning so the exit was easier than the entry. Our continued passage up Grenville Channel was made difficult this morning due to very low visibility. The low fog like clouds reduced our view window to around a mile which is always a bit uncomfortable at sea. As we neared Prince Rupert with the help of our electronics limping along with our lousy batteries, I was really glad to see the horizon lift and the skies start to clear for about the first time in a week.
As we neared Prince Rupert harbour, we could finally see in the distance our ultimate destination, Alaska. The distance from Prince Rupert to Alaska is only about 60 miles so we were really glad to see nice blue sky in that direction. The other amazing thing was that we are in the lower Dixon Entrance and the waters are really calm. From weather reports, we understand that a roaring gale had been running in these same waters for the past week keeping boats either in Prince Rupert or in Ketchikan depending upon which direction they were intending to head. We almost felt like running for it in the calm conditions but the big city beckons.
We arrived in Prince Rupert Yacht Club in the early afternoon and it is a great facility. We had been given really good advice, thanks Cec, to book ahead for reservations as the docks get very busy as summer arrives. They had a great spot for us on the inner breakwater so the hot rodding local boaters did not bounce us around as much as if we were on the outside.
Less than an hour after arrival, I was up in a local industrial battery outlet purchasing two new D8 batteries and hiring some local muscle to help with the transport and removal of the old ones. As boaters will know these batteries weigh around 160 pounds each and in my case particularly they are strictly dead weight. One of the local muscle turned out to be cerebral as well since he came up with the idea of tying ropes to the handles of the batteries and extracting them from the engine room in that fashion. After much grunting and groaning we managed to get the new batteries into the engine room and the old ones out and I was able to reconnect everything successfully. So we now have fully charged and hopefully functioning house batteries, what a relief.
We had a great seafood dinner last night in the Breakers Pub and plan to spend today sightseeing in Prince Rupert. Oh, and did I forget to mention the sun is out and shining in Prince Rupert. Summer is upon us, (for a while at least) and the sea conditions are predicted to be calm for the next few days.

The weather was so spectacular that we could not resist staying an extra day in Prince Rupert. We spent a bunch of time in the Museum of Northern BC and it was fantastic. We ran into two other couples from Vancouver, one of whom was an old client of mine from Teekay Shipping so we spent some time with them and joined them for dinner each night.

So it appears that we will launch ourselves across Dixon Entrance to Alaska early tomorrow morning, July 1st so if all goes well we will next report from Alaska.

June 27 - Baker Inlet

Nance the "happy kayaker" in Baker Inlet during an all too brief break in the weather

We are the only boat in the entire anchorage, a first for us I think

The glacier just in behind Baker Inlet with two spectacular waterfalls

We left Hartley Bay on a dreary morning and started up Grenville Channel toward our destination for the night, Baker Inlet. Alas, the dockside power connection masked my continuing battery problems which clearly were not solved by my dockside ingenuity. We shall continue to limp along on very shaky house batteries, using the generator for back up power, until we get to Prince Rupert where we hope to replace both batteries.
Baker Inlet is entered through a very tight little opening and is beautiful but really isolated. We headed up the inlet to the head and were the only boat anchored there all night. Winds were very strong all afternoon and evening so we let out a bit more chain and were glad we were well hunkered down.
During a break in the rain and wind in early evening Nance and I dropped in the kayaks and had a good paddle around the inlet. We saw a huge eagle at the top of a dead limb and Nance tried to capture him in a picture but he was too far away to do him justice. As we were floating about, a large fast rigid hull pontoon boat came roaring up the inlet to our bay. As they got closer it became evident that they were Canada Fisheries officers. We were not sure what they were looking for but it was good to see our tax dollars hard at work checking out potentially larcenous yachties. Actually, the officers were good guys and we chatted for some time before they pressed on back to Rupert I guess.
The deserted inlet we were in seemed perfect for shore line bear spotting but despite a dilgent watch we saw none. We were then happy to feel a significant drop in the wind as we hit the sack which made the rest of the night at anchor very pleasant.
Next day off to the metropolis of Prince Rupert.

June 26 - Hartley Bay

The boardwalks at Hartley Bay awaiting new homes to be added

Harbour at Hartley Bay featuring Bojangles at the two day a week ferry dock

Well, will wonders never cease, my relatively lean but much appreciated prawn haul

I took off in the dinghy this morning at first light and motored back to find my prawn trap. Not only did I locate it but in it were 8 huge prawns. Not a haul to keep the commercial industry afloat but much appreciated at dinner with our steaks, boiled with a little lemon.

We left Bottleneck Inlet and started up Princess Royal Sound past Princess Royal Island known to be the main habitat for our BC "spirit bears" the white Kermode bear. It was pretty socked in and surprise surprise, it was raining so we didn't spot any bears. Did I tell you it rains a bit up here?

As we headed toward Bishop Hot Springs for an afternoon dip we began to experience a noticeable drop in our house battery power. I started our generator but this did not help. These same house batteries had been giving us a few isolated problems on the trip so far but nothing serious until this point. Not wanting to tempt the Gods we decided to head for the the shelter of Hartley Bay and a secure dock to try and troubleshoot the problem.

Hartley Bay is the native village actually on the mainland where the native residents launched their boats to save the ferry passengers when the Queen of the North became directionally challenged and hit nearby Gill Island at 18 knots in the middle of the night. We wandered around the community which is constructed entirely on broad well built boardwalks. It is a really progressive community with all the amenities and a really friendly attitude toward visitors allowing us to stay free at their docks overnight.

I figured out my battery problem and with the help of a fellow boater from Alberta managed to drag the offending battery out of the parallel system and have been well served since by the remaining battery which appears sound. We will replace the dead battery in Prince Rupert once I figure out how to get a 165 pound 8D battery out of my engine room and get the new one back down into it. More to come on that later but nice to have full house battery power again.

We are heading for Baker Inlet just south of Prince Rupert today and plan to go into PR tomorrow a day ahead of plan.

June 25 - Bottleneck Inlet, Roderick Island

A picturesque waterfall on Sarah Island off Finlayson Channel

Our first Orca sighting of the trip in Finlayson Channel

Nance on her way to help with the epic prawn hunt

After breaking the bank to fill up with diesel in Shearwater we left for Finlayson Channel, a beautiful fiord like passage heading north toward Princes Royal Island. No sooner had we passed Jorkins Point at the entrance to Finlayson Channel we were surrounded by a pod of Orcas, the first we had seen so far this trip. They dove and surfaced just off our port bow and finally one dove right under our boat and out the starboard side to catch up with the rest of the gang. We also saw two Orca calves playing together not far from the boat.

It is always a challenge to try a take a decent picture of the Orcas since they are so neat to watch you can't really take your eyes off them and then they are down again. We posted one picture but it really didn't do justice to the actual sighting.

We anchored for the night in Bottleneck Inlet on Roderick island, a really safe anchorage down a long narrow channel. We had just got settled when I spotted a grizzly on the beach thankfully a long way away. It was our first bear sighting and pretty impressive. It looked almost like a buffalo grazing on the grass at the head of the inlet.

We then set off to drop the prawn trap for the first time. We had put crab pots down many times but the prawn trap was new to us so Gord decided on a spot based on his read of prawning 101 in the recent copy of Pacific Yachting. We then headed over to Sarah Island on the opposite side of the channel to see two beautiful waterfalls. We could motor the dinghy right up to the base to see the rushing water.
We finally adjourned to the boat and were both struck by how remote this area actually is. It is raining and mist hangs over the sides of the inlet like the moors of Scotland. Just before going to bed we heard the eerie howl of a wolf. Just the thing to hear before turning in.

June 23 and 24 - Shearwater

Bojangles at rest on the docks at Shearwater

Very extensive marine facilities at Shearwater

Nancy has overcome her concern with Grizzly's and has a new pal

We left Ocean Falls and headed for Shearwater which is the largest commercial centre in the Central BC coast. We are planning to spend a down day on the docks replenishing our dwindling supply of groceries and do the laundry etc.
As it turns out this was a really good decision as Tuesday was downright ugly. Blowing winds and driving rains made us glad we were tied securely to the docks and had access to all the amenities such as restaurants and shops.
We are taking the ferry today over to Bella Bella which is a native community in the next harbour to Shearwater. Both towns thrived on the fishing industry which is sputtering of late. However Shearwater appears to be continuing to attract many sports fishermen and the community in Bella Bella seems alive and well. In fact so well that I decided to assist their economy by leaving my wallet on the counter at the Bella Bella Band store and the local cashier had to run all the way down to the dock to return it as I was about to merrily board the Shearwater shuttle. Nanc just shook her head in wonder!
We met some nice folks on the dock heading in both directions, some north to Alaska and some heading south back from Alaska. The Shearwater docks are a real melting pot of activity with lot's of replenishing stuff going on and several big boats hunkered down for long term stays to fish on their tenders.

June 22 - Ocean Falls

Bojangles and Nanc at the docks in Ocean Falls

The main street bridge attaching both sides of the town is now down with few prospects for repair.

The falls and ghost town of Ocean Falls.

The residential community of Ocean Falls in the background framed by the beautiful mountains.

We left Codville Lagoon in brilliant sunshine this morning and headed for a BC cultural icon, Ocean Falls. It is BC's largest ghost town, with the pulp mill having been shut down in 1980, sending around 5000 residents searching for greener pastures. However, the remaining and some new residents are trying to crank up a bit of a tourist business and the good news for boaters is that the docks are in great shape and the views are exceptional.

We walking all around the town and saw all the old abandoned buildings getting more ramshackle each year. The only remaining industry is a power generation station for the Central BC coast operated from the original dam and falls which powered the pulp mill. About two weeks before we arrived the main street bridge collapsed effectively cutting the town in half. Apparently two or three residents had to rescue their cars by barge from the now unreachable portion of town. It is a shame to see what once was a thriving town with reportedly the largest hotel north of San Francisco in 1952 die a slow but certain death.

The people we met in Ocean Falls were really friendly and they hoped that the influx of Americans and Albertans looking for low cost accommodation in a beautiful setting may renew the community some day.

June 21 - Codville Lagoon, King Island

Well what do you know! Sunshine in our anchorage what a sight.

This is the remainder of the walkway at Hakai Land and Sea Society. Needs some TLC

Me in my"bug gear" Not so elegant but it sure works!

We left our gorgeous anchorage with some regret, as we almost decided to stay another day. However we set off up Fitz Hugh Strait to investigate Hakai Passage. Gord once belonged to the Hakai Land and Sea Club in Hakai, a fishing club with facilities on Calvert Island. We motored around to the club but either it is no longer operational or they have not yet set up for the year but it has a beautiful white sand beach which still looks inviting.

We saw two humpback whales today breaching and blowing quite near our boat. One was in Kwakshua Channel on the way to Hakai and the other was in Fitz Hugh Channel. We also saw the same Norwegian Cruise Lines ship that we saw in Seattle harbour last summer on its way south returning from Alaska. It was huge and quite a sight in a fairly narrow passage.

We arrived at Codville Lagoon, a huge and very peaceful anchorage to find ourselves the only boat. It felt a bit strange and very isolated. Gord really enjoyed the solitude but I must say that I felt more secure when one other sailboat from Alaska arrived to anchor in the harbour.

The guide books and charts showed a mile long trail from the head of our bay to a freshwater lake called Sager. Gord wanted to take this hike and I finally agreed so long as I could bring the following: Hiking boots, rain gear, bear spray, bear bells, mosquito repellent, whistles, flashlights, compasses, a portable GPS, satellite transponder, bug netting and water bottle. I was now ready for those bears and quite a sight.

The hike was like walking on a stream bed, as the trail was not maintained and quite muddy and slippery. After slogging through the mud and the bugs for a half hour we arrived at a beautiful lake but could not stay too long as the bugs were dive bombing us. I was OK in my bug jacket but Gord poo poos such stuff and was in a bug cloud the whole time at the lake.

On the way back my fear of being Grizzly lunch was offset by my concern about falling into the mud but we finally made it back to our bay and returned to the boat intact.

Our reward for this effort was a rack of lamb with blueberries for desert. Not all bad.

June 20 - Fury Cove, Penrose Island

On the way in to a beautiful serene anchorage

Our kayaks on the extensive white sand beach

The anchorage viewed from the beach which is part sand part shells

Happy Birthday Rae! enjoy your day.

It's "to go or not to go - that is the question". We went to bed still hearing reports of gale force winds in Queen Charlotte Strait so we were not greatly optimistic about our chances of moving north. I set my alarm clock for 4:30 so we could depart at 5:00. Gord wasn't moving so I returned happily to sleep confident that we would stay at our secure dock.

Gord bolted upright at 6:00 to announce that we should venture out and see if we could sneak up the shoreline in the strait to reach Allison Harbour. This would give us a better chance of clearing Cape Caution the next day if weather improved. Armed with the promise that if I didn't like the conditions we would return to the dock we left at around 6:30.

Evidently we did something right, Gord attributes it to a lifetime of pure living, since the seas had calmed right down and in fact were "waterski" flat. We set our sights for Cape Caution and commenced our first open sea crossing in Bojangles.

We cleared the Cape and reached Penrose Island, just past the entrance to Rivers Inlet, by around 10:00. We found the entrance to Fury Cove after a bit of searching and entered one of the most beautiful anchorages we have ever been into. Evidently others thought so as well since by dinner time there were around a dozen boats joining us. However, the anchorage is extensive so lots of room for all.

We kayaked around the entire bay and explored the sandy spit at the end, all in a very satisfying day.

June 19 - Sullivan Bay

The dock community at Sullivan Bay

Gord and his new friend

Nancy in jail for tying an incorrect bowline

We pushed off from Lagoon Cove in a howling wind with driving rain. Fortunately our whole trip today was in well sheltered inside waters. Our destination today is Sullivan Bay, a quaint dock/town on Broughton Island.

The weather channel on the radio reported gale force winds in Queen Charlotte Sound with 10 foot swells. This came as really good news for us as we were planning to cross this open stretch of the Pacific Ocean tomorrow.

As we pulled into Sullivan Bay we saw the cutest sight, a baby fawn not yet a week old was following Debbie, the female half of the management team around the docks like a puppy. It was found the day before crying and nearly drowning in the freezing water. They pulled her out and now she has firmly bonded to Debbie. They expect that her mother was killed by a bear or otherwise met her demise so it looks like "Bambi"may become a "dock doe".

After walking the dock community, the home owners have just recently acquired the Sullivan Bay facilities from the former owner, we had a shower and dined on homemade chicken stew and biscuits at the Sullivan Bay restaurant.

We are planning to make a run up Queen Charlotte Sound at first light tomorrow, weather permitting. However, 10 foot swells and gale force winds do not sound like my idea of a good time so we may hunker down for a leisurely hang around day at Sullivan Bay. More tomorrow.

June 18 - Lagoon Cove

Site of Bill's nightly cocktail party. The highlight of the social season!

The docks at Lagoon Cove

Beautiful scenery from the lawn at Lagoon Cove down the channel

We departed Blind Channel at the crack of 10:30 this morning after a leisurely breakfast and headed further into the Broughtons. As we approached Johnstone Strait a notoriously difficult stretch of water we could not believe our eyes, the water looked like a mill pond. It was the calmest anyone we spoke to later could recall.

After transiting the interesting Chatham Narrows we stopped by Minstrel Island which we had visited in 2005. When we last arrived, the owners had simply abandoned the resort apparently as an RCMP drug team was arriving by boat to put a stop to their marijuana grow operation. We found that under new ownership, not a great deal had changed from 05. Still a long way to go.

We passed through the Blow Hole into Lagoon Cove and were greeted by one of the all time great resort owners, Bill Barber. He claims to remember everyone who has visited with him previously and who knows maybe he does. Bill catches prawns and organizes a nightly potluck cocktail party on his docks where all visitors gather to swap stories and meet each other. It is a really nice touch.

The weather was great today but Environment Canada says that we might have to pay the price for our recent bout of fair and calm seas. Probably more to say about that later.

June 17 - Blind Channel Resort

A "hard day" reading in the rain!

Bojangles at rest on the dock at Blind Channel

The dock in front of the excellent Blind Channel restaurant and store

We faced three sets of treacherous rapids today if crossed at any time other than slack tide. According to our tide tables the crossing should be made at 10:30 so we left Cortes Island early and successfully transited Yuculta, Gillard and Dent rapids with no problems.

Just as we exited the last of the Dent rapids at Devils Hole we were joined in passage by a half dozen dolphins out for a joy ride on our stern wake. What a great site, they looked like mini torpedoes.

As we passed into Cordero Channel we saw a small whale watched closely by a boat full of tourist whale-watchers. We hung out and watched for a while until the whale got bored and left. We continued on to our destination for the night, Blind Channel Resort on West Thurlow Island. We filled up with diesel, ouch! ( the dock attendant even apologized for the price) and headed to the excellent showers in their cute bath houses.

Since it rained heavily in the afternoon we passed a relaxing afternoon reading on the boat with a great excuse not to go and challenge the local bears on the nearby woods trail.

We had a nice meal in the restaurant where the service was super and the room filled with grandmother produced art work going back over the 40 years that the family has owned this resort. A really nice family and a friendly place to stop.

June 16 - On to Desolation Sound

The store at Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island

GA shooting the rapids at Squirrel Cove tidal lagoon

We awoke today to gorgeous sunshine streaming onto our rear deck in Pender Harbour. After a leisurely breakfast we departed for Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island in beautiful Desolation Sound. We had unusually calm seas and made Cortes in around three hours. On our way we passed the beautiful white sand beaches of Savory Island and the town of Lund at the western terminal of the Trans Canada Highway.

Gord and I kayaked the entire Squirrel Cove after getting well anchored apon arrival. Gord portaged the rocky shoreline with his kayak to shoot the tidal rapids flowing out of a land locked salt water lagoon.

Our boat is anchored next to an old geezer who has been floating around this area now since February. He says that he is going home when it next snows. We feasted on fresh Chinook salmon and corn on the cob and have now settled in for a bit of reading and an early snooze. Tomorrow the rapids!

Father's Day June 15th Our Voyage Begins

Pender Harbour
Departing BYC

Our first day of our cruise to Alaska. We departed Burrard Yacht Club at around 11:00. It is Father's Day which is appropriate for Gord to begin his dream voyage to Alaska.
We had a beautiful sunny day with relatively calm seas which was great. We stopped a Pasley Island to pick up the kayaks and pressed on for Pender Harbour. We arrived around 3:30 but it took me until 5:30 to get unpacked and store all my stuff.
After a delicious dinner at the Garden Bay restaurant we rented a movie at John Henry's Marina and hunkered down to watch it. Life in the fast lane!
A nice way to end a lovely day and the first day of our Alaskan adventure.